JANUARY 2009 new york times

WINE UNDER $20
An Italian Red, a Juicy Price

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from Arboreto is a perennial best seller at Winesby.com, 23 Jones Street (Bleecker Street). The juicy, mellow 2007 version has been cut to $6.99 from $8 for the rest of January.

Vacationers and regulars pour this carafe red with grilled lamb, spicy lasagna and pecorino cheese in homey trattorias on the Adriatic in the mountainous Abruzzi region of central Italy.

The Winesby.com boutique is at 23 Jones Street (Bleecker Street).

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-Howard G. Goldberg


JANUARY 2008 new york times

WINE UNDER $20
A Red to Savor With Lasagna

Jeff Hock, owner of Winesby.com, says many one-bottle buyers of 2005 Mirabile red return soon for 12-bottle cases.

This simple, rustic $16 Sicilian wine, from the dark and rich nero d’Avola grape, defeats winter. Its rose-petal aroma and herbal notes bring to mind Rhône syrah and Australian shiraz. It enhances beef stew, and Mr. Hock finds it “a perfect lasagna wine.”

The Winesby.com boutique is at 23 Jones Street (Bleecker Street).

-Howard G. Goldberg


FEBRUARY 2007

WINE UNDER $20

Zweigelt is the most popular everyday red in Austria, which consumes 75 percent of its wine production. Weingut Hopler's matured 2002 version, from Burgenland, south of Vienna, is a standout.

The bouquet and flavor have hints of cherry. The body is delicately spicy and earthy, a slight tartness whets your appetite and the finish is long. In winter, sip it with tafelspitz-boiled beef.

Hopler's zweigelt costs $19 at Winesby.com, 23 Jones Street (Bleecker Street).

-Howard G. Goldberg


JANUARY 2006

WINE UNDER $20
A Rare Bargain From Bourgogne

White Burgundy for $17 is rare. That's why 2004 Le Meurger is a bargain at Winesby.com, 23 Jones Street (Bleecker Street), Greenwich Village. This chardonnay qualified to be labeled Meursault, which is pricey, but French marketers declassified it to lower-costing Bourgogne.

Jeff Hock, the shop's owner, calls this everyday wine a "poor man's Meursault." It has a zippy citrus-and-mineral character and a long finish. Consider buying a half-case; then think of your corkscrew as a faucet handle.

-Howard G. Goldberg


APRIL 2005

WINE UNDER $20
Bordeaux Blanc With Zip

The 2004 Château Lamonthe de Haux is a delicious introduction to dry Bordeaux blanc, an underappreciated genre. This herbal white, given zip by vinyard limestone, is a harmonious blend of sauvignon blanc, sémillon, muscadelle and rare sauvignon gris grapes. The gris adds a delicate aroma, says Fabrice Neel, a proprietor. He recommends the wine with steamed mussels, clams, grilled halibut and sea bass. Winesby.com, 23 Jones Street (Bleecker Street) in Greenwich Billage, charges a bargain $12.

-Howard G. Goldberg


FEBRUARY 2004

WINE UNDER $20
A French Red, Bearing Fruit

Earthy, raisiny, exuding layers of fruit, the 1998 Domaine Marquise de Mures, "Les Sagnes," a $15 old-vines red from small St. Chinian and Laguedoc, is at home in Winesby.com. This boutique for schmoozers carries 60 wines - 50 at $20 or less, mostly for immediate drinking - at 23 Jones Street (Bleecker Street) in Greenwich Village. Ask owner, Jeff Hock, to suggest a suitable dish.

-Howard G. Goldberg


APRIL 2003

WINE UNDER $20
Under the Sun, Rosé and Thou

In spring sunlight, Samiano Calo's 2001 Rosa del Golfo, a dry, salmon-colored rosato (rosé) from Puglia, Italy, is radiant. Its vivid, full-bodied flavor is profoundly refreshing. The flavor, from negromaro and malvasia nera grapes, is unusual.

Winesby.com asks $12. This Greenwich Village shop sells only 60 wines - 50 at $20 or less - nearly all for drinking now, at 23 Jones Street (Bleecker Street).

-Howard G. Goldberg


OCTOBER 2002

WINE UNDER $20
Alluring And Austrian

Austria's national grape, the grüner veltline, and its dry wines are increasingly luring young sommeliers. The producer Nigl's brilliant 2001 grüner veltliner, from the Kremser Freiheit vineyard in the Kremstal region, is a tapestry of subtle tropical fruit flavors, herbs, minerals and saltiness. It's a $16 giveaway at Winesby.com, 23 Jones Street (near Bleecker Street), Greenwich Village.

-Howard G. Goldberg


2002

WINE UNDER $20
Selective and Online

Winesby.com, a tiny Greenwich Village shop selling 60 wines intended for immediate drinking - 50 under $20 - is a find. Jeff Hock, its Woodstockian owner (everything's "awesome"), delivers in Manhattan. An exotic, beautiful $14 Greek white, the 2001 Mantinia Tselepos from the moschofilero grape, shows his selectivity.

-Howard G. Goldberg